Martina Franca is a beautiful and extremely photogenic town located in the Puglia region in the south of Italy. It is known for its well-preserved Baroque architecture and picturesque streets, both of which are surrounded by stunning countryside. Just a word of caution… as you approach Martina Franca, don’t be put off by the outskirts of the town. There are some pretty unattractive residential apartment buildings and rather ugly high-rise areas surrounding the historic centre but once you have made your way through these, you can’t help but fall in love with Martina Franca.
The town was (and still is) a prosperous town and these days has a population of approximately 50,000. The first part of its name – Martina – reflects the devotion of locals to San Martino, in existence since the 11th century. The second part of its name – Franca – was subsequently added in 1310 by Philip of Anjou, who granted the town tax free status along with other privileges.
What to see and do in Martina Franca
At the very core of Martina Franca is its centro storico characterised by a maze of narrow, winding streets lined with whitewashed houses. Don’t be surprised to find yourself in a dead end, encountering sharp bends or discovering hidden exits as you explore. So the story goes, the town was intentionally designed like this to surprise the enemy hundreds of years ago. This is also the reason why the town is perched on top of a hill.
This historic centre (also known as the lama) is surrounded by shopping streets, all of which have various entrances that lead to the heart of the town. A good starting point for any visit to Martina Franca is through one of the gates that surround the historic centre and which provide access to this core. Once surrounded by city walls, these were removed after the unification of Italy in 1861. However, four Renaissance and Baroque gates still stand today, separating the beautiful historic centre from the modern 19th century part of the town. The gates are all named after saints – Porta San Nicola, Porta San Pietro, Porta Santa Marina and Porta Santo Stefano.
Of these, we think that the Porta di Santo Stefano (also referred to as Arco di Sant’ Antonio) is the most impressive which is accessed from the wide, tree-lined Piazza XX Settembre. (Incidentally, this gate dates back to the 15th century but it was destroyed and rebuilt in the 18th century giving it the distinct Baroque appearance that you see today). This gate will, in turn, take you to the charming Piazza Roma, where you will find the Palazzo Ducale.
Once the seat of the Caracciola family in the 18th century, but now serving as the town hall, the Palazzo Ducale is free to enter and is well worth a visit. Upstairs you will find a long gallery of rooms which play host to a number of exhibitions each year, along with a museum which has a number of exhibits including paintings, sculptures, photographs and artefacts, all of which showcase the incredibly rich history of Martina Franca. The palazzo also has exhibits on the local wildlife and the conservation efforts taking place in this area.
Even if these exhibitions don’t take your fancy, it’s still worth heading inside the Palazzo Ducale to enjoy a walk along the external balcony of the palace which looks down onto the fountains, cafes and gardens of Piazza Roma below. You’ll also enjoy views over parts of the town and surrounding area from here. A visit is also a chance to admire its beautiful staircase known as the Scala d’Onore.
The Palazzo Ducale is not the only palazzo to be visited in Martina Franca though. Also of note is the Palazzo Martucci. And don’t miss also the beautiful clock tower that sits adjacent to the Palazzo dell’ Universita, the Palazzo Ancona or the Palazzo Blasi.
The town is also home to a number of churches worth visiting. From the Piazza Roma, it’s just a short walk on to the Piazza Plebiscito where you will find the 18th century Baroque Basilica di San Martino. Its intricate exterior facade is just as beautiful as its elegant interior and impressive frescoes. See if you can spot the bas-relief of San Martino on horseback on its ornamented facade, seen sharing his cloak with a beggar. And try and visit later in the day when its facade is beautifully lit by the evening sun.
The Parrocchia Santa Famiglia is also worth a visit. It’s not an old church at all, but the Byzantine style mosaic that adorns one wall is rather striking. And see if you can find the Chiesa San Domenico hidden in Martina Franca’s charming streets. A couple of kilometres outside the centre of Martina Franca is a rather charming 17th church – Chiesa di Sant’Antonio dei Cappuccini – which is also worth a visit if you have the time.
The rest of the historic centre is characterised by charming narrow streets and alleyways. Just spend a few hours wandering through them, soaking up the atmosphere and charm of this Puglia town.
If all this walking means you need to take a rest, then make a bee-line for what we think is Martina Franca’s most beautiful piazza – the Piazza Maria Immacolata – framed by semi circular buildings, under which you will find plenty of cafe options or a gelateria where you can sit and relax. Or, if the weather is nice, then we can also highly recommend some time relaxing in the Villa Comunale park. It’s a great place for a picnic, a walk or to just sit and admire the flowers and greenery that it boasts.
If you’re looking for a souvenir to take home with you, then Martina Franca may be the perfect place to find one. The town is home to a number of workshops that specialise in making beautiful ceramic pottery. Incidentally, a number of these workshops allow visitors the opportunity to try making something themselves if you fancy tapping into your creative side! Or, enjoy a stroll along the main shopping street – Via Cattedrale – where you will find a plethora of shops selling everything from clothes to handicrafts, souvenirs to foodstuffs.
Or, if you are interested in culture, arts and theatre, take time to visit the Teatro Garibaldi, a beautiful theatre located in the heart of Martina Franca. It has a beautiful interior, providing the perfect setting for some wonderful performances each year.
And before leaving Martina Franca, why not indulge in a wine tasting experience. There are a number of wineries in and around Martina Franca, not surprising when you consider that you’re in the heart of the Puglia wine-making region here. Try out the Primitivo, Negromaro or Verdeca wine. And these great wines can also be accompanied by some great food too. The Capocollo di Martina Franca is famous. The latter is a type of salami, made with pork which is marinated in wine and herbs for two weeks before being smoked and left to age for 3 months.
Events in Martina Franca
In the Summer months, Martina Franca plays host to a popular music festival – Festival della Valle d’Itria – which features a series of concerts and operatic performances held in some stunning settings including the Palazzo Ducale and the Basilica di San Martino.
Also at the beginning of July is a 4 day festival celebrating San Martino dell’ Aia e Santa Comasia during which you will find a number of street performances taking place along with light shows.
On 11 November each year, Martina Franca celebrates San Martino delle Sementi, a harvest festival giving thanks for the local produce grown and made in the beautiful countryside surrounding the town.
Later in the year still, there is a Christmas market each December, held in the Piazza XX Settembre.
Where to stay in Martina Franca
Trullo il Fragno is a stunning 3 bedroom Puglia villa in Martina Franca. With 3 bedrooms split over 2 separate buildings, the interior living space is just as stunning as the gardens and pool area.
How to get to Martina Franca
By aeroplane: The nearest airport to Martina Franca is Brindisi which is approximately 50 km away. Alternatively, it is also possible to fly into Bari airport. This has a journey time of approximately 1 hour 15 minutes from Martina Franca.
By train: The train station at Martina Franca is located south of the town, about a 10-15 minute walk from the historic centre. Don’t be put off by the walk. It’s not particularly scenic and may make you wonder why on earth you have chosen to visit! But the walk is well worth it when you get to the traffic free centro storico, full of its beautiful Baroque buildings.
By bus: The bus stop is just under a 10 minute walk from the historic centre of Martina Franca. It is located at Viale Europa 13.
By car: If coming by car, you will find Martina Franca situated just off the SS172. There are plenty of car parks in Martina Franca. Most of these are situated on the eastern side of the town centre. It’s also possible to find a parking space on the streets surrounding the centro storico.