Situated in the heart of Umbria, Todi is a hilltop town with a long and fascinating history. Nestled on the steep slopes of a 400 metre high hill which in turn is nestled on the banks of the River Tiber, legend has it that the founders of the city had originally planned to build Todi at the foot of the hill. However, whilst munching on their breakfast one morning, an eagle supposedly swooped down and flew away with their blanket, letting it go over the top of the hill. It was decided that this was an omen and construction of the town instead began on the hilltop. Take a look at Todi’s coat of arms and you won’t be surprised to see that it features this legendary eagle!
The history of Todi is very clearly visible in the rings that circle the town. The innermost circle was built by the Etruscans, the middle ring by the Romans and the outermost ring by those living during the Middle Ages, Todi’s heyday.
If you’re enjoying an Umbria villa holiday, then Todi should certainly be on your bucket list of places to visit and here’s why…
What to see and do in Todi
Plenty of buildings from Todi’s rich and illustrious history still survive today. Those from Roman times include the Roman basilica and Roman forum. However, to fully discover Todi’s Roman past, you also need to head underground. Below the rectangular Piazza del Popolo is a series of 1st century Roman cisterns (cisterne Romane) over 80 metres long which visitors can explore. They were originally part of a rainwater drainage and storage system that would have taken water from the Roman forum to the valley below.
Most of what you see in Todi today though dates back to the Middle Ages. This is when Todi was in its heyday and when it was at its most prosperous. The first of these is Todi’s 13th century Romanesque-Gothic cathedral, situated in the Piazza del Popolo. The facade of the Duomo is actually quite plain but inside, the interior is more impressive. Look out for Ferrau da Faenza’s copy of Michelangelo’s Last Judgement on the far wall. Just don’t expect to be too impressed by it! It’s pretty poor! The altar, designed and built by Gianncolo di Paolo, is much more impressive as is the central rose window. You need to be inside to see this at its best when the light streams through. And pay the small fee to head underground to explore the crypt too.
The Piazza del Popolo is widely acknowledged to be one of Italy’s most perfect Medieval piazzas so is a definite must-see on your Umbria villa holiday. Also in this incredibly beautiful square are three equally incredible palaces – the Palazzo dei Priori, the Palazzo del Popolo and the Palazzo del Capitano. All three palaces were built by the comune in an attempt to out-do the church so you’ll find them much more ornate than the Duomo. For those interested in learning more about the history of Todi under the Etruscans, then the Palazzo del Capitano is also home to the Museo Etrusco-Romano which contains a number of important artefacts.
Incidentally, if you think you’ve seen this square before, then it may be that you recognise it from a film. Not surprisingly, it has been the backdrop to a number of films, the most famous of which was Cleopatra featuring Elizabeth Taylor. You’ll find photos of her in a number of Todi’s bars and restaurants!
Next, for a rather different perspective on the town, head to the 15th Church of San Fortunato. Its facade was never completed but head inside to view fragments of frescoes by Masolino da Panicale. Also inside is the tomb of Todi’s patron saint, Beato Jacopone. Jacapone was a 13th century Franciscan friar (1230 – 1306). He was also an outspoken critic of Pope Boniface VIII and a poet writing in the local dialect.
You should also climb the 153 steps of the church tower. From the top you will be able to enjoy a terrific view over Todi towards the countryside beyond. Given that Todi is already 400 metres up, the views really are spectacular. There are also some lovely views over the Tiber Valley from the Piazza Garibaldi in Todi.
Finally, don’t leave Todi without visiting the church of Santa Maria della Consolazione, one of the best Renaissance churches in Italy. (You’ll have already spotted it from the top of the San Fortunato tower if you climbed it). The church stands outside the Medieval walls of the town and was completed in 1607. It has a stunning 50 metre high dome over a perfectly proportioned Greek cross plan.
Events in Todi
All year round, Todi has a weekly market every Saturday. This is a great time to visit if you’re a keen foodie. And every second Sunday of the month, Todi also plays host to an antiques market.
Otherwise, the biggest annual event in Todi is the Todi festival held at the end of August and beginning of September each year. Lasting over a week, it’s a chance to immerse yourself in plenty of theatre, music, dance, art and literature.
Alternatively, if you prefer to explore off season and are staying in an Umbria villa in the Winter months, the run up to Christmas is also a lovely time to visit Todi. The slope of the hill is lit up by a gigantic Christmas tree (although it’s not as big as the one in Gubbio!) and there are Christmas markets to get you in the festive spirit.
Where to stay in Todi
Bookings For You have a range of villas in Umbria perfectly placed for exploring all the best that Todi has to offer.
Villa Giardino, for example, is a stunning Umbria villa just 50 minutes from Todi in the heart of Spello. Or, how about this villa in Assisi? Just 40 minutes from Todi, this 5 bedroom Umbria villa is perfectly placed for exploring not just Todi but the wide Umbria region.
If you would prefer to stay in Todi itself, then check out the hotels in Todi available from our recommended partner, Expedia.
How to get to Todi
By plane: The nearest airport to Todi is in Perugia, under 40 minutes away.
By train: There are two train stations for Todi but both are outside the town and are a bus ride away from the historic centre. If coming up from Rome, then the quickest option to get to Todi is to take the train from Rome to Terni and then either switch lines here to get a train fom Terni to Todi Ponte Rio, or alternatively get the bus from Terni to Todi.
By bus: There are around 6 buses a day from Perugia to Todi which stop in the Piazzale della Consolazione. There are also regular buses from Terni to Todi run by Busitalia – Sita Nord s.r.l. The journey takes just under 50 minutes. If coming from Rome, you can take the SULGA bus directly from Rome to Todi.
By car: This is the easiest way to get to Todi. We recommend you park either at Porta Perugina, Porta Romana or Piaz`zale della Consolazione. At the Orvietano car park, there is an elevator to take you up to the top of the town. (If the lift is out of order, then a shuttle bus can take you to the town centre every fifteen minutes). Otherwise there are smaller car parks at Piazza Garibaldi and in front of the San Fortunato church but both are usually full so we don’t really recommend trying them!
Tempted to discover Todi for yourself on a holiday in Umbria, then check out our villas in Umbria available to rent for your next trip. Or, to find out more about the other villages and towns in Umbria, take our look our A to Z of Umbria.