Pienza is a tiny village in the beautiful Val d’Orcia in the South of Tuscany, nestled between the more famous, larger towns of Montepulciano and Montalcino. In 1996, Pienza was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status and, eight years later, the landscape in which it sits – the entire Val d’Orcia – was also included on UNESCO’s list.
The village dates back to at least the 9th century when it is first mentioned in documents. However, what you see there today really dates from the mid 15th century and is thanks to the work, vision and funding of Pope Pius II who wanted to transform his birthplace into a Renaissance utopia. This he did with the help of architect Benaro Rossellino (who also designed the facade of Santa Maria Novella in Florence) and under the guidance of humanist Leon Battista Alberti, who organised all the piazzas and palazzi within Pienza according to humanist principles and who transformed the town in the space of just three years.
What to see and do in Pienza
It won’t take more than a couple of hours to explore Pienza but we think it should be included on any tour of Tuscany.
Any visit to Pienza should start in the trapezoidal shaped central square – Piazza Pio II – home to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta (Duomo), the Palazzo Piccolomini (papal palace), the town hall and the Palazzo Borgia or Palazzo Vescovile, all constructed using bright travertine stone. In one corner of the square you’ll also discover a beautiful well, known affectionately as ‘the well of the dogs’ where you will find the Piccolomini family crest. The square is absolutely stunning.
It’s worth heading inside the Cattedrale dell’ Assunta to admire a number of incredible Renaissance paintings as well as the octagonal bell tower. The most notable works of art to look out for are five altar paintings from the Sienese School by Sano di Pietro, Matteo di Giovanni, Vecchietta and Giovanni di Paolo.
On the other side of the piazza is the Palazzo Vescovile, built at the request of Pope Pius II by Cardinal Rodrigo Borgia as a residence for Cardinals to use. These days it’s home to the Diocesan Museum and the Cathedral Museum where you will find a variety of artwork along with tapestries, illuminated manuscripts and miniatures.
And on the other side of the piazza is the Palazzo Comunale (town hall) with its brick bell tower and three arched loggia. The bell tower is notably shorter than that at the cathedral opposite, to clearly symbolise the superior power of the church.
Pienza itself is a hilltop town and so just as stunning as the town itself are also the views that can be enjoyed from Pienza of the surrounding countryside. Some of the best views can be enjoyed from the three floored loggia of the Palazzo Piccolomini which sits to the right of the Duomo. From the hanging gardens here, you can enjoy wonderful views over the Val d’Orcia stretching as far as Mount Amiata. If you think you recognise the palace, then the location was actually used by Franco Zeffirrelli in his 1968 film Romeo and Juliet, where it was used as the location of the first meeting of the lovers at the home of the Capulets. Opt for one of the guided tours of the first floor or explore the courtyard for free.
Take time to explore Pienza’s charming streets too. Take a walk along the main Corso Rossellino and then explore all the smaller side streets and you’ll find that Pienza is home to some of Italy’s most charming and romantic street names – the Via dell Amore (Street of Love) and the Via dell Bacio (Street of the kiss), making Pienza one of the most romantic places to stay in Italy. And take a short walk downhill to discover the Pieve di Corsignano. This Romanesque Church dates back to the 7th century BC but what you see today is more recent and dates back to the 12th century. Inside you will find the baptismal font where both Pope Pius II and Pope Pius III were baptised.
Other buildings in Pienza you may want to seek out include the Ammannati Palace and the Church of San Francesco.
Events in Pienza
Pienza’s most famous annual event is held every September. The Fiera del Cacio celebrates the pecorino cheese that the town is famous for producing, along with other traditional foodstuffs. It is also where you can witness one of Italy’s more unusual palios – the Palio del Cacio Fuso – where residents complete to roll an entire round of pecorino cheese around a central wooden spindle (fuso). It’s harder than it may sound and very entertaining to watch!
Where to eat in Pienza
Our favourite restaurant in Pienza is Poderuccio, a family run operation with Antonio waiting on the tables! Finish off with some gelato from what could arguably be the best gelateria in Tuscany, Buon Gusto.
No visit to Pienza would also be complete without sampling the pecorino cheese that the village is famous for. Made from sheep’s milk, the cheese is aged for between 6 and 18 months, with its flavour becoming more intense over time. Plenty of shops will have samples for you to try, which can be washed down with some of the excellent wines from the region too or paired with the delicious local honey. We highly recommend enjoying a bowl of freshly prepared pici con cacio e pepe before you leave!
Where to stay in Pienza
With views of Pienza, the aptly named Villa Pienza is rather stunning villa in Tuscany perfectly located if you want to explore Pienza for yourself. Alternatively, Casa Privata is a beautiful Tuscany villa in the heart of the Val d’Orcia just 3 km from the historic centre of Pienza. Or, finally, how about Villa Romantica, a 6 bedroom Tuscany villa with views over Pienza.
How to travel to Pienza
By car: By far the easiest way to get to Pienza is by car. You will find Pienza situated on the AA146 between San Quirico d’Orcia and Montepulciano. Parking is available along the streets that surround the old village walls.
By train: There is no train service to Pienza and the nearest train stations are about an hour away in Chiusi or Siena. From here, you’d need to get a local bus but the local bus service isn’t frequent or necessarily reliable so we really don’t recommend it!
By bus: There is a bus service between Chiusi train station and Montepulciano from where you could get a bus to Pienza. There is also a bus service from Siena to Pienza. Study the bus schedules carefully though to minimise the amount of time stood waiting for a bus to arrive! It really is much easier to hire your own car or to hire a driver to take you. And please note that a limited bus service will run on Sundays and public holidays.
If you are dependent on travelling by public transport, we’d recommend you instead book one of the many organised guided tours of Pienza which leave from other towns and cities within Tuscany.